The Anti-Acne Skincare Routine That Changed My Life: 5 Products I Use to Treat Moderate to Severe Acne

I saw my first dermatologist when I was 14 years old.

Since then, I’ve seen four more dermatologists, used almost every acne treatment available (including Accutane twice), and persevered through a roller coaster of skin experimentation.

But now over a decade after seeing my first derm, I can confidently say that I don’t need one.

Sure, I still get the rare bumps here and there, but 99% of the time, my skin is clear. And here’s how I got it that way.

The 5 Products I Use to Treat Stubborn Acne

After years of research and trial and error, I found 5 products that work together beautifully in an anti-acne routine.

Two of the products are strong medications that work against even the more severe forms of acne, while the other three are supplementary products designed for general skin health.

I’ll introduce each product here starting with the active acne-fighters. Then I’ll explain how I use them all in my daily routine.

(Note: Affiliate links are included below for some products. If you follow the link and make a purchase, I’ll receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.)

My Acne-Fighting Products

One thing you’ll quickly notice about my actives is that they are strong.

I designed this routine for people with moderate to severe acne like me, not teenagers who cry after getting a barely noticeable zit.

If you’ve struggled with inflammatory or cystic acne like I have, mainstream acne advice won’t work for you. Many over-the-counter products aren’t strong enough to treat the cause of your acne either. And the potential scarring and psychological effects mean you can’t afford to ignore the problem.

People who haven’t managed severe forms of acne don’t know how to treat this stuff. That’s why they say you should “just wash your face”.

But trust me, you aren’t getting acne because your face is dirty. Almost all of this comes down to genetics. And some of us need stronger solutions to address the problems we’ve been dealt.

Product #1: 0.1% Tretinoin Gel

Cost and Usage:

• Approximate Cost: Varies ($22/20g tube personally)
• Time to Finish: 5 months (20g gel tube)
• Average Cost per Month: $4.40

Tretinoin is the powerhouse behind my skincare routine. The product belongs to a group of ingredients called retinoids that are derived from vitamin A.

Tretinoin, or tret as it’s commonly called, was approved by the FDA for topical acne treatment all the way back in 1971. The product increases skin cell turnover which keeps your pores from clogging, and it also improves skin texture by reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

Tret is most commonly available in cream and gel forms, and the medication is usually found in three concentrations: 0.025%, 0.05%, and 0.1%. I was initially prescribed the 0.025% cream, and I eventually moved up to 0.1% gel. I prefer the gel because it’s easier to spread and it’s more potent than equivalent cream concentrations.

Now earlier, I mentioned I had been on Accutane twice. For those who don’t know, Accutane (or isotretinoin) is an oral retinoid that’s reserved for severe cases of acne. It’s a powerful drug that can cause some nasty side effects, but in my case, it worked like a charm.

Problem was, the results didn’t last.

My skin was clear for about a year after both Accutane courses, but the acne came back both times. That’s why I started using tret.

Unlike Accutane, tretinoin is safe to use in the long-term, and I’ve seen similar results while using it. The treatment does have side effects, however, and they’re especially apparent during the first month of use. Dry skin, peeling, and an initial purging period where acne gets much worse are common.

I saw a huge reduction in side effects and incredible skin improvement after 3 months of use with my current concentration though. Yes, that sounds like a long time, but once retinoids work, they really work. So it is worth the investment.

Finally, I should mention that this is a prescription product, so a derm will need to prescribe it—at least in the U.S.

That being said, there are other ways to get genuine tret too.

Earlier I said I don’t a need a derm anymore, and that’s because I get my tret from overseas. I won’t list details of that process here though because I’d rather you take the prescription route as a first-time user.

Tretinoin has notable side effects and it doesn’t work for everyone, so I’d like new users to try it under a derm’s supervision. Plus, I would get mine prescribed too if the 0.1% gel wasn’t so hard to find in the U.S.

Product #2: Clean & Clear Persa-Gel 10 (10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel)

Cost and Usage:

• Approximate Cost: $9/1 oz tube
• Time to Finish: 6 months
• Average Cost per Month: $1.50

My next treatment is the only over-the-counter product that consistently works for me.

Clean & Clear persa-gel 10 is an acne treatment made with a 10% concentration of benzoyl peroxide. Benzoyl peroxide (or BP for short) is an acne-fighting ingredient that works especially well for inflammatory acne. It removes acne-causing bacteria by oxidizing your skin, and it even helps unclog pores. Acne bacteria can’t survive in an oxygen rich environment, so your acne won’t become resistant to BP either.

Common concentrations of the treatment include 2.5%, 5%, and 10% maximum. Side effects are usually mild conditions like dry skin, itching, and redness. These generally increase at higher concentrations.

It’s also worth noting that BP will bleach hair and fabric, so it’s best to dress before applying, and use white towels and bed sheets during treatment.

I’ve always had some success with benzoyl peroxide, but there’s something about Clean & Clear’s persa-gel formulation that my skin really likes. I’ve used other BP formulas at the same concentration yet the results weren’t nearly as good.

Now some people may express concern with using BP along with tret, but the two products work well together. No, I don’t use them at the same time—I’ll discuss how and when I apply each later—but together, they address my two biggest causes of acne.

Tretinoin speeds up skin cell turnover (which addresses a genetic cause), and BP kills acne bacteria (which is the external one).

My Supplementary Products

Next are my products without acne-fighting ingredients.

You might be tempted to skip this section if acne is your only concern, but all three products here supplement my actives well.

My skincare philosophy is to let strong actives do their thing. And these three do that while also cleaning, hydrating, and protecting my skin.

Product #3: Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser

Cost and Usage:

• Approximate Cost: $8.50/8 fl oz bottle
• Time to Finish: 4 months
• Average Cost per Month: $2.13

My first one here is the Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser.

I’ve only recently started using Vanicream products, but I’m impressed with the brand. This gentle cleanser from them is free of any irritants and harsh ingredients. It’s simply there to cleanse your skin.

The product lathers well and leaves your face feeling smooth after washing. The ingredient list is also light and it doesn’t feel like it strips your skin when you use it.

I previously used a salicylic acid wash which I liked, but that stuff burned once I started using tret. I haven’t had any issues since switching to this cleanser though.

Product #4: Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer

Cost and Usage:

• Approximate Cost: $15/3 fl oz tube
• Time to Finish: 3 months
• Average Cost per Month: $5

Next, I have another Vanicream product: it’s their Daily Facial Moisturizer.

I absolutely love this stuff. It has five ceramides and hyaluronic acid, so it hydrates like a rich cream, yet the product itself isn’t heavy at all.

I know I and many of my acne-prone peers have a love-hate relationship with moisturizers, but I’ve never had an issue with this one. Previous moisturizers either left my skin still feeling dry or they broke me out like the popular Cerave ones did.

I used Cerave products a lot before, but after doing some research, I found that an ingredient combination in their moisturizer was comedogenic (i.e., it clogged pores).

I’ve since learned that any product with a combo of cetearyl alcohol and ceteareth 20 does not agree with my skin, and Cerave’s Daily Facial Moisturizer had that combination.

Vanicream’s product is fine however. The only downside to me is the relatively high cost. This is easily the product I run through the fastest, so I wish it was available in larger sizes too.

Product #5: TIZO 3 Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40

Cost and Usage:

• Approximate Cost: $28/1.75 oz tube
• Time to Finish: 6 months
• Average Cost per Month: $4.67

My last product is the TIZO 3 Tinted Mineral Sunscreen.

Like moisturizers, sunscreens are also a challenging product for me and my acne-prone peers. None of us should go without it though because most acne-fighting ingredients make skin more sensitive to sunlight.

As an African American, sunscreen use isn’t as common among those with my complexion either, but this product from TIZO works well for every aspect of my skin type.

TIZO 3 is a mineral sunscreen that sits on top of the skin (as opposed to chemical sunscreens which are absorbed by the skin and can cause irritation). This particular version is also tinted, so it blends well without the ghostly look. The product contains multiple antioxidants too, and it leaves a smooth, sheer finish after application.

This is the only sunscreen I’ve had success wearing daily long-term. Others either irritated my skin, left a greasy finish, or were just a pain to apply.

The biggest downside to this product is the cost, but it’s not bad considering a tube lasts for so long. If you’re someone who liberally applies sunscreen, then it might get expensive, but a little goes a long way for me.

If you’re interested in this one, I would suggest buying from Walmart. Their price is much cheaper compared to every big retailer. I’ve seen this stuff on Amazon for around 40 bucks, which is ridiculous, but Walmart’s price has been as low as $25.

My Life Changing Anti-Acne Routine

So to review, I use 5 products with a total monthly cost of $17.70:

1. 0.1% Tretinoin Gel
2. Clean & Clear Persa-Gel 10 (10% Benzoyl Peroxide Gel)
3. Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser
4. Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer
5. TIZO 3 Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 40

Here’s how I use them in the morning and at night.

PM Routine

I’ll actually start with my nighttime routine since that’s when I use my strongest product.

Here are the steps below:

• Step 1: Wash face with Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser
• Step 2: Moisturize with Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer
• Step 3: Wait 15 minutes, then spread pea-sized amount of tretinoin over face

Step 1: Wash face with Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser

I start the routine by washing my face with the Vanicream cleanser. This helps me remove any dirt, oil, and other impurities before using tretinoin.

I get a nice lather going for about thirty seconds and wash it off with lukewarm water afterwards. Then I pat dry with a face towel.

Step 2: Moisturize with Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer

Immediately after drying my face, I use the Vanicream moisturizer. Doing this keeps my skin from losing any moisture after washing. It also preps my skin for tretinoin.

The instructions for tret will tell you to apply it on completely dry skin, but this doesn’t mean you can’t moisturize beforehand. I’ve done it both ways, and I prefer moisturizing first because it reduces tret’s side effects without compromising effectiveness.

This technique is called buffering, and I do this before applying both my actives.

Step 3: Wait 15 minutes, then spread pea-sized amount of tretinoin over face

After moisturizing, I wait about 15 minutes. Then I apply tret.

The common forms of tretinoin degrade quickly in sunlight—and the jury’s still out on artificial light—so I do this step as close to bedtime as possible. I follow the instructions by putting a pea-sized amount on my finger. Then I dot my forehead and both cheeks with the gel and spread it around.

I make sure to avoid the eye area as skin around your eyes is thinner and more sensitive. I’ve gotten tret near my eyes before after a careless application, and I woke up to a burn mark the next day.

Even though I use this stuff all the time, I know it’s still potent, so I carefully spread it across my face till it dries. Then I wash my hands and go to bed.

AM Routine

My morning routine is similar to nighttime. The biggest differences are that I use BP in the mornings instead of tret, and I apply a layer of sunscreen before heading out.

Here are the steps below:

• Step 1: Wash face with Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser
• Step 2: Moisturize with Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer
• Step 3: Treat problem spots with Clean & Clear persa-gel 10
• Step 4: Wait 15 minutes, then moisturize again
• Step 5: Apply TIZO 3 sunscreen after moisturizing

Step 1: Wash face with Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser

I start again by washing my face with the Vanicream cleanser.

I usually shower in the mornings, so the only difference here is that I cleanse in the shower.

Step 2: Moisturize with Vanicream Daily Facial Moisturizer

After showering, I dry my face as quick as possible and then moisturize immediately to stop hydration loss.

Again, this is a great way to lock in moisture after washing your face. Doing this also creates a buffer for my second acne-fighter.

Step 3: Treat problem areas with Clean & Clear persa-gel 10

Next, I apply a drop of persa-gel 10 to each of my problem areas.

Unlike my tret application, I don’t wait long after moisturizing to use BP, and I don’t apply it to my whole face either. My cheeks and jawline are my trouble areas, so I usually apply a thin layer across those.

The persa-gel 10 absorbs well without much effort. I just rub it in a few seconds till it dries. Then I wash my hands and wait.

Step 4: Wait 15 minutes, then moisturize again

I wait at least 15 minutes after applying BP to do anything else to my skin. This gives the treatment time to absorb and do it’s job. It also frees me to brush my teeth and do whatever else to get ready.

I don’t put any clothing or fabric near my face during this time though. BP will stain your clothes if you’re not careful with it, so it’s important to keep that in mind.

Once the wait is over, I moisturize again and then start the last step.

Step 5: Apply TIZO 3 sunscreen after moisturizing

Finally, I apply a layer of TIZO 3 sunscreen.

The product is tinted and it spreads smoothly, so there’s no fighting to prevent the ghostly look. I simply spread a layer on and head out.

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So that’s my routine for you. I follow those steps every day, morning and night.

My skin’s been through so much that it didn’t take long to adjust to this. Using such a strong version of tret daily causes dryness sometimes, but if I notice that, I just skip tret for a night. Otherwise I do both routines with no problem.

If you’re interested in trying this but think my acne-fighters are too strong, you can always do the same routine with lower strength versions. A derm will probably start you with a lower tret concentration anyway, and the BP strength is something you can decide through trial and error.

Clearing Acne and Changing Lives

When I said this routine was life-changing, it wasn’t clickbait.

This acne-clearing routine really has changed my life, and that’s why I shared it.

I no longer spend hours staring in the mirror, I don’t decline spontaneous social invites, and I’m not late to work anymore because of skin trouble. And it’s all thanks to this routine.

I remember hiding from people because of my seemingly incurable disease—yes, that’s what acne is—and I don’t wish that on anyone.

If a skincare routine can clear skin as bad as mine was, then I know it can work for you.

You don’t have to hide, you don’t have to wait it out, and you don’t have to waste resources jumping from treatment to treatment. Just give this routine a shot.

No, your skin won’t clear instantly. In fact, it will most likely get worse before it gets better. But once you endure the first month or two, you’ll see a difference.

Successfully treating stubborn acne is a long game unfortunately, but the good news is that people like me have been successful. So please keep a good attitude and talk with a derm about this if you can.

The first step to solving any problem is taking the initiative to fix it. And if you’re willing to do that, I can’t wait to hear your success story soon.

-Drew

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Photo Credits (By Order of Appearance):

• Maridav — Shutterstock
• My 0.1% tretinoin gel
• My Clean&Clear BP gel
• My Vanicream cleanser
• My Vanicream moisturizer
• My TIZO 3 sunscreen
• metamorworks — Shutterstock
• Prostock-studio — Shutterstock
• Random person who’s used my routine